05Central & South America · Peru

Peru

In Peru the altitude slows you down until you notice things properly. That turned out to be the point.

Ancient Andean stone terraces emerging from morning mist with layered green mountains behind
Andes, Peru

From the notebook

From Cusco to the coast

A journey through Cusco's historic heart, aboard the train into the mountains, among the remarkable stonework of Machu Picchu, and along Lima's Pacific cliffs.

01 · Cusco

The old capital

Cusco's Plaza de Armas and cathedral beneath a clear blue sky
First view across Plaza de Armas
Cusco Cathedral overlooking the busy Plaza de Armas
Cusco Cathedral
Wide view across the arcades and cathedral of Plaza de Armas
The heart of old Cusco
Ken and Jocelyn sharing breakfast beside a window overlooking Cusco
Breakfast overlooking the plaza
Steep cobbled lane lined with whitewashed buildings in Cusco
Climbing the streets of San Blas
Narrow Cusco street rising toward the surrounding mountains
A city built into the hills
Illuminated colonial arcades and church tower in Cusco at dusk
Plaza de Armas after sunset
Cusco Cathedral and its bell tower glowing after sunset
Evening light on the cathedral
Plaza de Armas reflected in wet paving beneath evening lights
The plaza at night
Night view over a lively street and plaza in central Cusco
Cusco from above
Warmly lit narrow stone lane in old Cusco
A quiet lane after dark
Map showing the route from Cusco through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu
The road toward Machu Picchu
Panoramic view of Cusco and the surrounding dry Andean hills
Cusco spread across the valley
Visitor map of Cusco's historic centre
Finding our way through Cusco
Open highland landscape and ancient stone walls above Cusco
The heights above the city
Monumental zigzag stone walls at Sacsayhuamán beneath a blue sky
The walls of Sacsayhuamán
Close view of precisely fitted monumental stones at Sacsayhuamán
Stonework without mortar
Broad grass terraces and stone ramparts at Sacsayhuamán
Across the ceremonial grounds
View along the massive fitted stones of Sacsayhuamán
Along the ancient wall
Layered stone terraces at Sacsayhuamán with mountains beyond
Terraces above Cusco
Women in colourful traditional dress carrying alpacas in a colonial square in Cusco
A lively afternoon in Cusco
Plaza de Armas in Cusco with its fountain, cathedral, and church beneath a clear blue sky
Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Cusco cathedral and the hillside city seen across the broad cobbled Plaza de Armas
Cusco beneath the Andes
Traveller walking with a cane along a narrow Cusco street at night
An evening walk through Cusco

02 · Sacred Valley

Through the Sacred Valley

A woven display filled with colourful varieties of Andean corn
Colours of Andean corn
Traditional market display of grains, seeds, potatoes, and corn
Harvest from the highlands
Rows of colourful handmade figures displayed on woven textiles
Craft traditions of the valley
Visitors gathered beside a stone courtyard in the Sacred Valley
A pause in the high country
Ancient agricultural terraces stepping down a Sacred Valley mountainside
Terraces following the mountains
Close view across broad Inca terraces and retaining walls
Stone upon stone
Sunlit agricultural terraces descending toward the green valley
Looking into the Sacred Valley
White church standing alone on a broad Andean plateau
Church on the high plateau
Andean woman in traditional dress beside her alpaca
A warm welcome
Roadside sign for the Salineras de Maras salt mines
Onward to Maras
Steep overview of hundreds of white salt pools at Maras
Salt cascading down the mountain
Geometric salt evaporation pools filling a mountain ravine
The salt pans of Maras
Close view of cream and amber salt pools at Maras
A patchwork fed by mountain water
Sunlit ochre and white salt pans at Maras
Working terraces of salt
Monument to an Inca ruler and attendants against a clear sky
Guardians of the Andes
Unpaved road crossing farmland beneath the snow-dusted Andes
Across the high plain
Concentric circular agricultural terraces at Moray
The circles of Moray
Sacred Valley farmland with a snow-capped Andean ridge beyond
Snow peaks beyond the fields
Carved stone seats arranged on the grass at Moray
Stone markers at Moray
Visitors climbing the immense terraces of Ollantaytambo
Entering Ollantaytambo
Close view of enormous fitted stone blocks at Ollantaytambo
The enduring Inca wall
High view over the terraces and settlement at Ollantaytambo
Temple terraces from above
Steep rock mountain rising behind the town of Ollantaytambo
Mountains enclosing the valley
Town and archaeological site enclosed by sheer Andean mountains
Ollantaytambo beneath the cliffs
Stone stairways and terraces ascending Ollantaytambo
Climbing through the fortress
Inca storehouses built high into the mountainside above Ollantaytambo
Ancient storehouses in the rock
Visitors crossing stone ruins high above the Sacred Valley
Across the upper terraces
Ancient walls set against the rugged cliffs of Ollantaytambo
Stone and mountain
Interpretive sign describing the archaeological site
Reading the story of Ollantaytambo
Wide view of Ollantaytambo's terraces beneath towering cliffs
The fortress from the valley floor
Long stone foundations at the foot of Ollantaytambo
Temple foundations
Ancient stone water channel carrying a clear mountain stream
Water still running
Three alpacas grazing beside the archaeological site
Alpacas in the valley
Wide green lawn, terraces, and mountains at Ollantaytambo
A final look at Ollantaytambo
Profile-like rock formation high on an Andean cliff
A face in the mountain
Curving agricultural terraces seen from the road above the Sacred Valley
Terraces carved into the valley
Portrait view over patterned terraces and distant mountains
Looking down into the valley
Warm sunset illuminating mountain peaks above the Sacred Valley
Last light on the Andes

03 · The journey

The Machu Picchu train

Male performer in vivid red Andean clothing entertaining passengers aboard the Machu Picchu train
A performance aboard the Machu Picchu train
Female performer in traditional Andean clothing holding flowers aboard the Machu Picchu train
Music and colour on the journey

04 · Machu Picchu

A city above the clouds

Aguas Calientes with a rocky stream running between buildings beneath forested mountains
Arriving in Aguas Calientes
Aguas Calientes footbridge and stream framed by steep green mountain walls
Aguas Calientes in the mountain valley
Stone buildings and terraces at Machu Picchu against layered Andean peaks
First light across the stone city
Ken gesturing toward Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu behind him
A long-held view, finally seen
Wide elevated view over the stone buildings, lawns, and terraces of Machu Picchu
The citadel from above
Precisely built stone terraces rising beneath a brilliant blue sky at Machu Picchu
Terraces shaped into the mountain
Panorama of Machu Picchu's central lawns, stone buildings, and Huayna Picchu
The heart of Machu Picchu
Close panoramic view of Machu Picchu's stone houses and terraces
Among the ancient houses
Steep stone terraces and a thatched guardhouse beneath a deep blue sky
Climbing through the terraces
Agricultural terraces and stone buildings stepping down the mountainside at Machu Picchu
Terraces above the valley
Temple walls made from precisely fitted monumental stone blocks at Machu Picchu
Precision in stone
Guide pointing out a finely fitted carved stone wall at Machu Picchu
Reading the ancient stonework
Sacred stone structures framed by distant green Andean peaks
Sacred spaces among the peaks
Tall carefully fitted stone wall rising into the blue sky at Machu Picchu
Walls built to endure
Large ceremonial stone resting within a roped courtyard at Machu Picchu
A ceremonial stone
Visitors walking among stone buildings with the upper terraces beyond
Through the old city
Green ceremonial lawn and stone terraces beneath a wide Andean skyline
Open ground beneath the Andes
Llamas grazing between low stone walls and sunlit terraces
Grazing among the terraces
Llamas resting and grazing below the stone rooflines of Machu Picchu
Residents of the citadel
Visitors gathered around a monumental sacred stone with distant peaks beyond
The sacred stone and mountain horizon
Rugged stone wall and tower viewed against an intensely blue sky
Stone and sky
Carved ritual stone on a high terrace overlooking steep forested mountains
Above the Urubamba valley
Carved stone platform at the edge of Machu Picchu overlooking rounded green peaks
At the mountain's edge
Broad view of agricultural terraces and stone dwellings climbing the hillside
A city built into the slope
Long stone wall with recessed windows and mountain peaks visible above it
Windows toward the mountains
Layered stone terraces and buildings with llamas grazing near a lone tree
Life among the ruins
Narrow stone stairway rising between terraces and ancient walls
Paths through the citadel
White llama standing beside agave and ancient stone walls
A llama among the stonework
Sunlit terraces and buildings rising toward Huayna Picchu
The eastern terraces
Ken presenting the panoramic view of Machu Picchu beneath the high sun
A moment to remember

05 · Lima

Along the Pacific cliffs

Pacific waves rolling below the green clifftops and coastal road of Lima
Lima's Pacific coastline
Miraflores clifftops, apartment buildings, beach, and pale Pacific water
Looking along the Miraflores cliffs
Faro La Marina lighthouse framed by two tall palm trees in Lima
Faro La Marina, Miraflores
Smiling woman seated in a powered paragliding trike wearing a helmet and harness
Ready for a coastal flight

More of the Peru story — and the rest of the Central & South America collection — continues in the journal.

Open the Peru segment in the Central & South America journal →